Well known for its exceptional cosmetic properties, squalane has long been a key ingredient in skin care and pharmaceutical formulations. Initially extracted from shark liver oil, then from olive oil in the 1980s, squalane has now entered a third generation with Neossance™ Squalane, produced through an innovative biotechnological process using renewable raw materials.
This breakthrough marks a turning point for formulators seeking high performance, sustainability and supply security.
Squalane: a molecule with universal qualities
Squalane (C₃₀H₆₂) is obtained by hydrogenation of squalene (C₃₀H₅₀), an oily liquid naturally present in plants, animals and human sebum, where it represents more than 10% of adult skin lipids. Because squalene oxidizes easily, hydrogenation stabilizes the molecule while preserving its biological affinity with the skin.
Squalane is renowned for its outstanding properties:
- Colorless, odorless and tasteless
- Extremely stable and resistant to oxidation
- Non-toxic and non-irritating
- Excellent sensory profile: light, non-greasy feel and fast absorption
- Easy to formulate and highly compatible with cosmetic systems
Its close similarity to skin lipids gives squalane strong dermatological benefits, including emolliency, moisturization, improved skin suppleness and excellent penetration. Highly versatile, it can be used in all types of formulations with no usage limitation.
An eventful history of squalane
First generation: shark-derived squalane
Discovered in Japan in the early 20th century, squalene was first stabilized by hydrogenation in the 1950s, leading to the development of cosmetic-grade squalane. Rapidly adopted by formulators, it was even included in the French Pharmacopoeia.
However, reliance on shark liver oil led to ethical concerns, supply instability and price volatility, limiting long-term market growth.
Second generation: olive-derived squalane
In the 1980s, extraction of squalene from olive oil provided an alternative. While this solution addressed animal welfare concerns, olive squalane remained more difficult to purify and suffered from lower purity levels (92–96%) and continued supply constraints due to its dependence on food-industry by-products.
A market constrained by supply challenges
Cosmetics and pharmaceuticals represent the majority of global squalane consumption, with demand reaching several thousand tons annually. Historically, supply has been the Achilles’ heel of squalane, whether shark- or olive-derived.
Both sources depend on by-products with fluctuating availability, leading to recurring shortages and price instability — a major obstacle for industrial-scale formulation and long-term product development.
Amyris: a new industrial vision for squalane
Founded on groundbreaking biotechnology research, Amyris developed a fermentation platform capable of producing high-value molecules from renewable sugars. Initially applied to the production of artemisinin for malaria treatment, this technology later enabled the development of Biofene™ (farnesene) — a naturally occurring sesquiterpene.
Biofene™ serves as the building block for a wide range of industrial products, including Neossance™ Squalane.
Neossance™ Squalane: the “sugarcane” squalane
Natural, renewable and responsible origin
Neossance™ Squalane is produced from farnesene obtained by fermentation of sugarcane-derived sucrose using Saccharomyces cerevisiae. After distillation, hydrogenation and dimerization, the result is a 100% pure squalane molecule (C₃₀H₆₂).
Key sustainability credentials:
- 100% USDA Certified Biobased
- Non-GMO
- Ecocert approved
- Does not compete with food resources
- Exceptional yield: up to 2,500 kg of squalane per hectare, compared to ~50 kg from olive oil
- Sugarcane by-products reused for energy production
Amyris is also a member of Bonsucro, reinforcing its commitment to responsible sugarcane production.
Authenticity, quality and performance
Neossance™ Squalane is chemically identical to traditional squalane, with the same well-known structure:
2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane.
It delivers:
- Identical sensory performance (spreadability, penetration, skin feel)
- Improved UV stability compared to olive squalane
- Excellent formulation compatibility
- Consistent purity and traceability
A new industrial standard for squalane
By relying on renewable, abundant raw materials and large-scale industrial production, Neossance™ Squalane brings unprecedented price stability, supply security and traceability to the market.
This industrial vision finally allows formulators to fully leverage the benefits of squalane without ethical concerns, supply risks or price uncertainty.
Conclusion
Neossance™ Squalane represents a decisive step forward in the evolution of squalane. Combining performance, sustainability and industrial reliability, it reconciles cosmetic excellence with modern environmental and economic expectations — opening a new era for skin care formulation.
By François Laserson, Président du Directoire – CEO, LASERSON SA